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Minggu, 25 Mei 2014
LUXOR TO THE RED SEA: A DESERT EXCURSION
I�ve always been curious about the desert so when I learned we would drive from Luxor to Soma Bay on the Red Sea, a distance of about 327 kilometers, I was excited at the opportunity to experience the Sahara first-hand. I�d seen the desert in movies but this would be the real thing.
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The Sahara is the world�s hottest desert, over 9,4000,000 square kilometers. It covers most of North Africa, stretching from the Red Sea, including some of the Mediterranean cost, to the Atlantic Ocean. The name comes from the Arabic word for desert �sahara� .
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We set off in the morning from Luxor, boarding a van provided by Escapade Travel Transportation. Once we had driven through the town of Luxor we headed out into the vast expanse of sandy dunes. The only greenery is near the Nile River Valley so for most of the trip all we�d see was the vast stretch of dunes with occasional palm trees, shrubs or acacia trees. Farther ahead were rocky crags and then more stretches of dunes.
Ever so many kilometers on the straight stretch of highway there was a check point where armed guards looked over the vehicle. On at least one occasion I saw sniffer dogs. This was in no way disconcerting as it was similar to passing through border crossings.
Ever so many kilometers on the straight stretch of highway there was a check point where armed guards looked over the vehicle. On at least one occasion I saw sniffer dogs. This was in no way disconcerting as it was similar to passing through border crossings.
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The Sahara has one of the harshest climates in the world. Sand storms are common and the north-easterly wind is strong. Rainfall is rare, with the area receiving less than four inches or even less, a year. It�s interesting to note that thousands of years ago the Sahara was much more verdant. Evidence has been found of whale fossils and dinosaurs. Now the only areas with lots of vegetation are the Nile River Valley and some of the oases near the Mediterranean Sea. As for animals on the desert, we occasionally saw camels or goats which are the most domesticated animals in the desert. These were mostly seen near places where there were oases or habitation.
As we neared the coast, the land was flat, stretching out like a buff-colored blanket. The highway was clear of traffic so we made good time reaching the coast, then turned south toward Soma Bay. Finally, I got my first glimpse of the Red Sea. And guess what? It was turquoise!
NEXT: Have I died and gone to Shangri-La?
THE KEMPINSKI SOMA BAY HOTEL RESORT
Minggu, 18 Mei 2014
Alexander the Great
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archaeology
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Egypt
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historical sites
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photography; travels
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shrines
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temples
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THE MAJESTIC TEMPLES OF LUXOR AND KARNAK
Sphinx Avenue
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The city of Luxor is a pleasant city beside the Nile River, with a population of � million people. Right in the centre of Luxor (known as THEBES in ancient times), there is a magnificent temple built by Amenophis III (1417-1370 BC) and Rameses II (1104-1237 BC). It is dedicated to the Theban Triad (Amun-Min, Mut and Khonsu). This is one of the most historic temples of ancient Egypt. The Egyptians called their temples �the houses of eternity�. Perhaps this is true, as they have so far outlasted time. The long road leading to the temple is lined with small Sphinx statues. At the entrance gate, workers were preparing seats for an evening light show.
We entered through the gates past a giant Sphinx who greeted us with its enigmatic smile.
I was so excited when our Egyptologist, Hanan, led me into one of the inner chambers and pointed out the hieroglyphics on the wall that told of the arrival of Alexander the Great. Alexander visited there when he was on his Persian campaigns, stopping by Egypt to drive out the Persians who had invaded the country years before. The Egyptians adored and honoured him, naming Alexander after Horus, the Son of God. There on the wall, Hanan pointed out, was Alexander�s cartouche! Below it some Greek visitors from the 1800�s had engraved their own names. Alexander dedicated one of the temple�s antechambers to the Sacred boat of Amun a replica of the god�s solar boat used during religious celebrations.
Greek graffiti
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During the Roman period (284-105 AD) the temple was used as a military camp. There are still some restored paintings from that period at one end of the main building. Later it was used as a church by the Christians and after that the Mosque of Abdul Haggag was built which stands alongside the temple wall.
Mosque of Abdul Haggag
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North of Luxor�s city centre is Karnak, one of the largest religious complexes. It was known as Ipet Isut which meant �the most select of places�. Over the years it was enlarged by various Pharaoh�s. It covered an area of 247 acres built around the Temple of Amun, and served as a spiritual centre and economic hub composed of temples , obelisks, pylons, courts, colonnades, halls, reliefs and sanctuaries.
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As I approached it, down the long avenue of sphinx-like animals, I could not help but feel a bit overwhelmed. The grandest feature of Karnak is the Great Hypostyle Hall which has 135 columns and includes the chapel of Senusert dating back to the Middle Kingdom.
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I was amazed at the massive height of the obelisks that tower over the buildings, one dedicated to Thutmose I and Hatshepsut and one named �the botanical garden of Thumose II� which is decorated with reliefs of plants, tress and animals
After this exhilarating and somewhat exhausting day of touring, we returned to the ship for dinner. We spent a relaxing evening in the bar entertained by a a belly dancer and the most amazing whirling dervish who could spin himself so fast he was a blur like a spinning top!
NEXT: Tomorrow we disembark the ship and begin a cross-desert safari to the Red Sea.
Kamis, 24 April 2014
THE CROCODILE TEMPLE AT KOM OMBO
Getting ready for another exciting tour!
Kom Ombo was situated at an important crossroads between the caravan route from Nubia and routes from the gold mines in the eastern desert. At one time, during the reign of Ptolemy VI (180-145 BC) it was a training depot for African war elephants.
Kom Ombo
Today Kom Ombo is the home of many Nubians who were displaced after the Aswan Dam flooded their lands. They now work in the tourism industry or the sugar cane fields on the river banks. There are also felucca-building yards at Edfu and many Nubians are helmsmen on the river boats.
On our way to Kom Ombo we passed by the Colossi of Memnon, two giant monoliths that stand by the road guarding the Theban Necropolis all that remains of a temple built by Amenophis II about 2400 years ago.
The Collosi of Thebes?
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We entered the temple complex through the remains of the monumental Gate of Neos Dionysos. Much of the temple has been washed away by Nile floods so only low walls and stumps of pillars in the forecourt remain. But in the beautiful Outer Hypostyle Hall there are fifteen sturdy columns still standing, with decorated cornices and carved winged sun disks. The papyrus is the symbol of the Nile Delta and the bases of these columns are carved with the heraldic lily of Upper Egypt and the papyrus.
Me at the Temple of Kom Ombo
Kom Ombo Temple is an usual double temple built during the Ptolemaic dynasty, with later additions by the Romans. It has courts, halls, sanctuaries and rooms duplicated for two sets of gods. The right side is dedicated to Sobek-Re (the crocodile god combined with the sun god Re) along with his wife and their son. Sobek is associated with Seth, the murderer of Osiris and enemy of Horus. In the myth, Seth changed himself into a crocodile to escape. The Egyptians believed if they honored the crocodile as a god they would be safe from attacks by the ferocious creatures.
Nubians?
The left side of the temple is dedicated to the falcon god Haroeris �The Good Doctor� (Horus the Elder) along with his consort Ta-Sent-Nefer,�the Good Sister� (another form of Hathor) and Panebtawy, Lord of the Two Lands.
Hanan explains the heiroglyphics to Linda ?
Our Egyptologist guide, Hanan, made the tour through the temples interesting by telling the stories etched in the hieroglyphs. There is a relief of Sobek in his snake form on one wall and another shows Ptolemy II making offerings to various gods. The scene on the face of the rear wall was interesting as it may have represented a set of surgical instruments.
Mummified Crocodiles?
In ancient times, this part of the Nile was known for the crocodiles that basked in the sun posing a threat to the locals. This is likely why one of the temples at Kom Ombo is dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god.
After this interesting tour, we returned to the boat and lounged on the deck for a while before heading off for EDFU.
Linda, Yves and me relaxing on deck
Edfu
Edfu is a small city located on the west bank of the Nile River north of Aswan. This time we were transported by horse and carriage which made it a unique and extra fun experience. We were swarmed by Nubian souvenier-sellers but politely declined their wares. One young boy caught my attention though. As charming as could be, he kept saying to me �You have a lovely smile, lady! Smile again!� Of course he wanted me to buy some trinkets, and eventually I just couldn�t resist his charm!
The Carriage Ride
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The cute souvenier seller?
The Edfu site has provided archaeologists with more information than many others, dating from as far back as the Predynastic Period right until the Byzantine era. Edfu was the capital of that area of Upper Egypt and one of the few settlements that thrived when others were in decline.
The Temple in Edfu is located on the west bank of the Nile which was known in Greco-Roman times as Apollonopolis Magna, after the chief god, Horus-Opollo. This is one of the best preserved temples in Egypt. It was built in the Ptolemaic period between 237 � 57 BC and dedicated to the falcon god Horus.
Because the temple is so well preserved it is a frequent stop for many of the river cruises and tour groups. The day we were there though there were few others, one of the significant examples of how the tourism in Egypt has suffered in the last two years.
The temple of Edfu is the largest temple dedicated to the gods Horus and Hathor and was the centre of sacred festivals to honour the gods� sacred marriage. The ancient Egyptians believed that each year Hathor travelled south from her temple at Denderah to visit Horus at Edfu. It was an important festival and pilgrimage.
Me and Horus
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What makes this temple unique are the inscriptions on the iwalls which provide important information on language, myth and religion during that period in ancient Egypt. The most unique thing is the inscribed building texts that provide details of the temple�s construction and information about the mythical interpretations.
Hanan pointed out the important scenes and inscription that told the age-old conflict between Horus and Seth. (Seth was the god who killed Horus� father, his own brother Osiris).
It was such an intense and interesting day of touring that when we got back to the ship in the evening none of us had the energy to join in a �Gallabia Party�. I peeked in to see though. Everyone was dressed in Egyptian costumes and having a great time dancing to Egyptian music. I kind of wished I�d had the energy to attend as it looked like everyone was having a lot of fun. But we needed a good night�s sleep because the next day we were headed for Luxor and the Valley of the Kings!
The Egyptian Party
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Nile Sunset?
KOM OMBO info: http://www.ancientegyptonline.co.uk/komombotemple.html
EDFU TEMPLE info: http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/edfu.htm
NEXT: THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS AND THE AMAZING TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSUT
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