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Kamis, 03 April 2014
FLYING ON A WING AND A PRAYER TO EGYPT
PART ONE: My Egyptian Adventures
And so, we were here at last, in Egypt, and very soon would board the cruise boat that would take us on a memorable adventure down the Nile River.
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It was with some confusion and a certain amount of trepidation that I found myself at the check-in counter of Egypt Air in Toronto on March 13. There had been no clear advice on the meet-up so I got there 3 hours ahead of flight time and waited. I had no idea of who I was to meet but I spotted a young woman with reddish blond hair who was carrying a back-pack and talking on her cell. I figured she might be one of us, and she was. This was Linda, who was to be one of my travel companions on this special media trip to Egypt courtesy of Egyptian tourism.
We waited together at the check-out area, and when nobody else showed up, we decided to go through to the boarding gate. We sat a while and Linda made some calls to the Montreal office of the trip organizer. He assured us that our contact, Marko was on his way by car from Montreal. Trouble was, there had been white-out conditions in Toronto when I had landed the night before, and I knew by TV that the highways were choked with snow and traffic.
Then I spotted a gentleman carrying a back-pack and camera equipment. He looked like a journalist, so I asked him. Yes, he was Yves, from Quebec. And where were the others? There were supposed to be six of us and we wondered if any of the others had arrived.
Once on the plane, Linda got seated next to another man who was with our group. He said that one of the women had herself bumped to first class. But where was Marko?
It was still a puzzle as I stepped off the plane 11 hrs later. Would I be abandoned in the Cairo airport? (Some of my friends had expressed this worry before I accepted this trip!) But no, there they were: Linda. Yves, the illusive Marko and the other two journalists. We were met by a handsome Egyptian tourism rep., Peter, who escorted us to the visa office and then to the boarding gates for our ongoing Aswan flight.
An hour later we touched down in Aswan and from the moment I stepped off the plane I felt that, at last, my adventure in Egypt was more than just a dream.
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ASWAN
We were met in the airport at Aswan by Hanan Eldeeb, an Egyptologist who would be our guide through all the ancient sites along the Nile River. First stop: to view the High Dam. This dam is one of the most important achievements in the 21st century in Egypt. The Dam was constructed between 1960 and 1970. The Dam is 3,830 metres long , 980 metres at the base, 40 metres wide at the crest and 111 metres tall. About 11,000 cubic metres per second of water passes through the dam per second. The Nile valley and delta benefit from this because due to an absence of rainfall, Egypt�s agriculture depends on irrigation and the high dam at Aswan releases water into the irrigation canals so it has had a significant impact on the economy. I was amazed at the size of the dam which separates the upper and lower Nile. Before the dam was built the Nile River flooded every year in the late summer. The dam provides protection from floods and droughts and helps increase agricultural and electricity production and provides employment.
Unfortunately, the dam flooded a large area and submerged several archaeological sites. Over 100,000 people had to be relocated and some of the archaeological treasures were moved as well.
One of these important archaeological sites is the Temple of Philae. Our Egyptologist guide suggested that we should rest up and have lunch and then we would visit this unique temple on an island in the Nile. But first, we stopped by the gravel quarries to see the enormous unfinished obelisk that lies in situ in the quarry. These gravel quarries produce all the red granite used in the building of many ancient structures. The unfinished obelisk, left where it was because the granite cracked marring it, was discovered in 1922. It would have weighed over 2.3 million pounds making it the world�s largest piece of stone ever handled by man.
Before we left to board the boat that would be our �home�for the next three days, we stopped to see the monument of the Arab-Soviet Friendship that commemorates the completion of the Aswan High Dam. The monument is dedicated to the Soviets who provided technicians and heavy machinery in the building of the dam. The coat of arms of the Soviet Union is on the monument along with the coat of arms of Egypt. This towering edifice was the work of Russian sculptor Nikolay Vechkanov.
Before we left to board the boat that would be our �home�for the next three days, we stopped to see the monument of the Arab-Soviet Friendship that commemorates the completion of the Aswan High Dam. The monument is dedicated to the Soviets who provided technicians and heavy machinery in the building of the dam. The coat of arms of the Soviet Union is on the monument along with the coat of arms of Egypt. This towering edifice was the work of Russian sculptor Nikolay Vechkanov.
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(photo by Yves Ouellet)
NEXT: The Temple of Philae
Jumat, 03 Juni 2011
GREECE: EXPLORING THE MANI
GYTHION
The port of Gythion (Gythio) in the south Peloponnese is the gateway to what is known as "the Mani", a narrow peninsula that once could only be reached by sea. I'll be starting out from here to explore the Mani and it's unique villages.
TOWER HOUSES
The Mani (which originally meant "dry" or "treeless") is part of the Taygetos mountain range which forms the western spine of the Peloponnese. It's divided between the prefectures of Laconia and Messenia. Laconia was dominated by Sparta in ancient times. Homer refers to some of the towns in the regions and there have been artifacts from the Mycenaean period found here. When Spartan power was destroyed in the 3rd century BC, Mani became a self-governing area until the Roman invasion. Over the centuries the peninsula was fought over by the Byzantines, the Franks and the Saracens. As a result there were many local wars until the Mani's autonomy was abolished in 1870.
The Maniots are known for their wild nature and their zealous safeguarding of family property and tower houses (pyrgospita) were built to protect the feuding families. Many of these are now abandoned but some are being restored and occupied; some are offered as visitor accommodation. The area attracts visitors who are interested in the Byzantine churches and Frankish castles. There are also many popular beaches.
THE MANI COASTLINE
The local people work as olive farmers. There is some tourism during the summer near the beach areas but many of the villages are remote and have few inhabitants. The area is known for its unique culinary products (glina or syglino) pork or pork sausage smoked with herbs such as thyme, oregano, mint and stored in lard along with orange peel) It is also known for the world's best extra-virgin olive oil and local honey.
One of the well-known tourist spots are the Diros Caves where you can see stalactite and stalagmites. These caves are partly underwater and can be toured in gondola-like boats. Sounds like fun!
photos courtesy of Wikipedia commons
Rabu, 01 Juni 2011
NEXT STOP GREECE: ALL THE OLD FAMILIAR PLACES
The Acropolis
Going back to Greece is like going home to me. Since 1979, my first trip, I have spent countless days and months there, living in Athens from 1983 - 1987 then returning in 1989 for a long run of six month stints. It's only been in recent years, since the double expense caused by the Euro, that I have been staying for shorter periods. This year, for only 3 weeks. I actually intended to go back there to live once I retired from my daycare work, but in the end realized that to be in touch with the literary communities and since I was by then teaching classes in writing in Vancouver, it was best to stay put. But my heart is, and always will be, in Greece and in particular, my Athena!
#14 Vironos Street, Plaka (this is where I used to live)
Each time I return, I walk by #14 Vironos St. (Byron's Street) in the Plaka where I used to live. I touch the gate, peek inside the courtyard and reminisce about my life there. I have so many memories of that little basement suite and the courtyard with all Kyria Dina's flowers, and the little spitaki where my dear friend Roberto used to live. Although Roberto, who was an artist from Argentina, and several of my other friends have now sadly passed away, I still have a circle of good friends and acquaintances in Athens, and that is another thing that draws me back there time and time again. They are my Athen's family.
Some of the Athens gang and other family & friends from abroad at the Hill of Muses.
One of the things about Athens that I never get tired of doing is walking around all the old familiar places. I know Athens well as when I lived there I did ESL classes with children all over the city. I used the transit and often walked, even long distances. So I am familiar with where most things are although there is always something new to explore and this year my friend Anna Britt and I intend to check out some of these newly gentrified areas just to see what's going on, as well as a chance to see something new.
View of the Agora from above (that's the Temple of Hephaestion)
I could walk some of those pathways blind-folded I know them so well, yet I never get tired of retracing my old footsteps. The Acropolis and the Ancient Agora are of course two of the most significant areas in the Plaka. I am so familiar with them that the first time I stepped into the Agora (1979) I had a deja vu experience that made me feel as if I had really been part of that ancient world. I've had many such experiences in Greece. Perhaps that is why I feel as if my soul is there. I not only write about Greek ancient history, but I have 'lived' it.
The Sacred Way that leads through the Agora up to the Parthenon on the Acropolis
The Plaka Square is in the centre of this oldest part of the city. It's a hub of activity with shops and tavernas. When I lived there, we used to hang out around Plaka Square but these days it is very touristic and much more expensive to dine there. However, I usually go there to sit in the little square and sometimes for a special evening meal, although I've been told one of my favorite taverns where they had live music and Greek dancers is now closed. (Economics of breaking the strict laws?)
Plaka Square, Kidatheneon Street
The corner, fondly known as "The Dirty Corner" on Vironos Street by the Lysikrates Monument has now been turned into a posh coffee house. When I write my "Life Below the Acropolis" stories, this place will be featured as there are many tales to be told about the events and people who used to hang out there in the 1980's.
The once infamous "Dirty Corner", scene of many a Greek drama!
There's lots more to Athens besides the old area of Plaka (although this is the most interesting, it is also the most touristic). I enjoy browsing around Syntagma Square, the National Gardens, and often walk down Panapistimio Street where the gorgeous Neo-Classical university buildings are located.
In front of the University buildings.
And then there's Athens at night. I love when it gets dark and the Acropolis is all lit up with a golden light. The Plaka is bustling with activity. People are heading for the tavernas for their evening meals. The little squares are full of people out for their evening 'volta'. Kids are playing in the squares while their parents sit and chat with glasses of ice cold frappe. This is a part of Athens life that is so unique but often missed by tourists. There is, however, a popular tourist activity, and that is to see the Athens Sound and Light show, performed at the site of the ancient Pnyx. There you'll see a reenactment of the history of the city so it's well worth taking in. There's also the Dora Stratou Dance Company performing traditional dances on Filoppapou Hill. Athens is alive at night, especially during the hot summer days when it's the coolest time to be out and around. But at any time of the day, the city has a living pulse. You can hear it and feel it. And that's one of the things I love about being there. For some reason, my whole life changes and I feel more 'alive' myself. Yes, I guess I truly do have an everlasting love affair with this remarkable old city!
The Acropolis from the Tower of the Winds, Roman Agora
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